Used with Permission from Russel Mathews (Mill Valley Ranch) Tynong North, Vic. Aus.

Note that there are some formatting issues yet to be dealt with... some things are missing.

This a concept only at this point in time.

 

Blue Bronna Wilderness Camp

Western Horsemanship Program.

There are FIVE Levels in the Blue Bronna Western Horsemanship Program to cover the experience and ability of all Campers and Staff.

These Levels are: - Cowpoke, Ranch Hand, Buckaroo, Wrangler, Horseman

Whilst the Level of Cowpoke covers all "new" or "inexperienced" campers, the Levels from Ranch Hand to Horseman are obtained after the completion of various written, theory, and ridden tests.

 

RANCH HAND.

Written Testing

Parts of Bridle and Saddle

Grooming Tools and Techniques

Beginning Horse Sense

 

Practical Test & Exercises

Catch & Halter Horse (inc knots)

Grooming

Saddling

Bridling

Clean Saddle & Bridle

 

Trail Ride

Walk & Jog – Short Length

 

Riding Test

Lead Horse (from ground)

Back Horse (from ground)

Mount

Dismount

Walk Horse

Jog (Sitting Trot)

Back Horse

Circle @ Walk

Circle @ Jog

Reverse @ Walk

Reverse @ Jog

Slow (Jog to Walk)

Stop from Walk

Stop from Jog

 

Seat and Hand positioning

Natural Aids

 

 

 

 

 

BUCKAROO.

 

Written Testing

Parts of the Horse

Gaits of the Horse

Horse Terminology

Horse Colours

Basic Horse Sense

Practical Test & Exercises

Washing

Knots

Hoof Cleaning

Stable Cleaning

Trail Ride

Walk, Jog & Lope – Extended Length

Riding Test

Review Ranch Hand Level

Turn on Forehand (from ground)

Fast Trot (Standing Trot)

Extended Trot (Rising Trot)

Lope (Canter)

Turnback

Artificial Aids

Trail Obstacles

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WRANGLER.

 

Written Testing

Appaloosa Colourations

Appaloosa Characteristics

Paint Colourations

Leg Pattens and Markings

Face Patterns and Markings

Teeth

Hoof

Foaling

Intermediate Horse Sense

Practical Test & Exercises

Lunging

Clipping and Mane Pulling

Completed Horse Staff (Min) 2 weekends

Floating (Transportation)

Bits and associated equipment

Health check

Horse care (Cooling, Feeding, & Watering)

Research Assignment

Trail Ride

Walk, Jog & Lope – Extended Length

Riding Test

Review Ranch Hand Level

Review Buckaroo Level

Turn on Forehand

Turn on Hindquarters

Methods of Lead Correction

Methods of Cross Firing Correction

Head Flexion

Flying Lead Change

Side Passing

Ride 3 horses in above movements

Balance of Horse & Rider

Direct and Indirect Rein controls

Leg Control

 

Completion of set Riding Pattern/s

 

 

 

 

 

HORSEMAN.

 

Written Testing

Skeleton

Unsoundness and Blemishes

Conformation

Advanced Horse Sense

Practical Test & Exercises

Driving

Halter Break Foal

Health Check

Horse Conditioning

Trimming

Shoeing

Completed Horse Staff (Min) 2 weeks

Research Assignment

Trail Ride

Walk, Jog & Lope

Overnight Stay

Riding Test

Review Ranch Hand Level

Review Buckaroo Level

Review Wrangler Level

Sliding Stop

Rollback

Two Tracking

Spin

Bridling Horse Up

Ridden 4 horses in above movements

Bareback Riding

One Handed Riding with Curb Bit

Completion of "Western Riding" pattern

Completion of "Reining" patterns

 

 

 

Blue Bronna Wilderness Camp - Ranch Hand Level

 

 

 

Grooming Tools and Techniques.

 

Curry Comb To bring the dirt to the surface of the coat. Use in small circular sections (approx 300mm), all over the body, except face & legs.

 

Hard Brush To remove the dirt from the coat. Use in a "flicking" action, along hair growth pattern, all over body, except face & legs

 

Soft Brush To shine the coat, & to brush the Legs and Face. Use to brush along the hair growth pattern, all over body.

 

Mane & Tail Comb To remove "knots" etc. Use in the same direction as the hair growth.

 

Mane & Tail Brush To remove "knots" etc. Use in same direction as hair growth.

Hoof Pick To clean out hooves by removing stones etc. Use on the base of Hooves.

Sweat Scraper To remove excess water from coat.

Use in the same direction as the hair growth pattern, used all over body, except face.

 

Parts of the Western Saddle and Bridle.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Natural Aides

There are four parts of the rider’s body that the rider can use to control the horse. These are the VOICE (the verbal commands), HANDS (using the reins), FEET or LEGS (asking the horse to turn or stop), and WEIGHT (used to help the horse move in different directions). These four different means of control are called NATURAL AIDES.

Beginning Horse Sense.

Horse sense gives riders the ability to understand why horses act in certain ways.

Understanding this behaviour will provide insight on how to handle horses in any circumstance.

Understanding this behaviour will enable you to recognise external influences and to be ready for a horse’s action before they actually respond to the external influence.

Although horses are large and powerful, they are easily scared and frightened by even the smallest noise. The natural reaction of a horse is to turn and run away.

A cornered horse prevented from escape will often resort to kicking and/or biting.

Horses are herd animals and as such there is usually a herd leader, often a dominant Mare, who will lead the herd to food and water, and between pastures and paddocks. The herd may be hesitant to move if the leader is removed from the lead position.

As horses have their eyes on the front of their heads they have excellent vision in front of and above them, which means that they can see almost 350 degrees but not directly behind them.

 

Blind spots under the head, and behind mean the horse is nervous if someone approaches form behind without the horse knowing. For this reason talk softly when approaching to ensure they are aware that you are there. Don’t forget that they may be asleep.

Because of the natural reaction to run away loud noises and sudden movement should be avoided at all times.

Avoid standing either directly behind or directly in front of any horse to avoid being run over or kicked.

When leading your horse always turn the horse away from you. This will prevent him from standing on your feet

Never hand feed horses as to a horse a finger may be mistaken for a treat such as carrots. Horses eating may be possessive of their food so stay clear.

 

Crowding horses may also result in kicking or biting so keep at least one horse length between horses at all times.

When mounting and dismounting be aware that horses may be sensitive to items over their buttock areas. When mounting do not hesitate especially with the leg over the horse’s rump.

Unusual movement on their backs may also alarm horses, therefore dismount at all times if it is necessary to adjust or remove clothing such as coats etc. Scarfs and Jumpers/Coats around the waist should not be worn when riding as these items may work loose and may become entangled in the gear or alarm the horse.

Correct clothing is essential for riding, both to be professional, but also for safety. Hard hats (approved to latest specifications) should be worn at all times. Long pants, shirts with sleeves, and closed boots with a smooth sole are also required. Sneakers or runners must never be worn when riding or working around horses. The four most important items are Helmet, Nametag, Long Pants and Boots with a heel

All equipment should be cared for and put away properly after use. This will ensure that gear lasts for a long time, but is available when required. Equipment that may required maintenance should not be used until repaired.

Blue Bronna Wilderness Camp - Buckaroo Level

Parts of the Horse.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1 Poll             15 Muzzle             29 Heart Girth

2 Crest           16 Upper Lip         30 Barrel

3 Withers       17 Lower Lip          31 Flank

4 Back           18 Cheek             32 Abdomen

5 Loin            19 Throat Latch     33 Stifle

6 Croup         20 Neck                34 Gaskin

7 Point of Hip 21 Point of Shoulder 35 Elbow

8 Buttock      22 Thigh               36 Chestnut

9 Quarter      23 Arm                 37 Ergot

10 Hock       24 Chest              38 Cannon

11 Fetlock   25 Forearm           39 Fetlock Joint

12 Forehead 26 Knee              40 Coronet

13 Face      27 Hoof                41 Pastern

14 Nostril    28 Shoulder

 

Gaits of the Horse.

 

 

 

WALK . The Walk is 4 Beat gait. The speed is suited to warming your horse

up (& cooling down) before faster exercise.

The sequence of foot fall is 4 1

                                                           3 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

JOG. The Jog is a 2 Beat gait. Because of the 2 Beats the horse has a

period of "Suspension" where the horse is actually of the ground.

 

The sequence of foot fall is 2 1

                                       1  2

 

 

 

 

LOPE. The Lope is a 3 Beat gait. The period of suspension is after the completion

of the 3 beats, before the commencement of the next stride. A left lead is

describe here

The sequence of foot fall is 3 2

                                        2  1

 

Basic Horse Sense.

Horses are by their nature scared and timid. Loud, sudden noises or unusual movement can make them frightened. When frightened the horse’s natural reaction is to run away. However the riders own response during these reactions by the horse can effect the horses actions.

A rider who is nervous when on a horse will find that the horse will also become nervous, tense, and uneasy – this particularly applies to new riders and is if the horse can sense the rider’s nervous condition.

However an experienced or confident rider can bring a nervous horse back under control and calm it down by a gentle and firm control of the reins as well as soothing and calm words. Basically if you act frightened it will make him more frightened.

Although horses are larger and stronger than humans are they do not realise that they can disobey and escape from us, because of their training.

A horse obeys us through habit, repetition, and training. When riding any horse the rider has a responsibility to continue the "training" of the animal by using the same methods, aids, controls, and rewards/punishments. This will ensure that the horse remains under control and obedient to future rides. However using incorrect methods, cruel responses, or unrealistic expectations when riding will result in the horse becoming sour, untrained, bad mannered, and dangerous.

A horse learns each segment of their training by a system of rewards and punishments. For example when we ask a horse to go forward or "walk" by using a voice command the punishment for a horse that does not obey is a pressure by the rider’s legs. Likewise the reward for the correct response is a relaxation of any rein or leg, or voice pressure by the rider.

As the horse’s attention span is approximately 3 seconds any "reward" or "punishment" must be given within that 3 seconds following compliance to a request or the horse disobeying a command.

"Rewards" can be a release from the pressure from a rider’s legs/hands, etc, or it can be a break from work, a soothing/calm voice, or a food treat.

"Punishments" can be a harsh/stronger voice, additional rein/leg pressure, spur pressure, or a prevention of the horse being able to do what he wants to do.

All Rewards and Punishments must fit the situation and the horses training level.

Be careful that a horse is not rewarded for doing something wrong. This includes being "rewarded" with eating grass when he has jerked the reins from a rider’s hands.

All riders must be careful not to be cruel to the horse by deliberately hurting or abusing the horse, or by unsafe or dangerous riding actions. Such riding on the horses at Blue Bronna Wilderness Camp will not be tolerated and will result in permanent loss of riding privileges.

At all times the horse must be focused on, and be listening to his rider. This will enable the horse to respond to the signals given. Horses displaying angry gestures to other horses while being ridden should be punished by a stern voice and removal from the location (away from the other horse in question) immediately.

A rider must ensure that all commands and aids should be the smallest and lightest required to make the horse respond to signals. Only resort to additional or stronger commands if the horse does not respond. Never assume that just because the last horse ridden required a certain harder command and pressure that the next horse will require the same level of pressure and control. This type of riding may result in a horse acting uncontrollable due to the "harsh" level of signals given.

At all times the order of commands to a horse is to be: -

ASK. - Use a voice command.

TELL. - If the horse does not respond use a

            clearer command including a stronger voice

            command (to ensure the horse listens and is not

            asleep), along with a mild leg/rein/weight pressure.

COMMAND. - Use a strong signal to ensure that the horse

                    responds. These may include a sharp kick,

                    and/or a firm rein pressure. Remember to

                    release the pressure when the horse responds.

Artificial Aids.

An "Artificial Aid" is one that is used to reinforce the "Natural Aids" and are an extension of the rider’s own legs, hands, weight, and voice. The rider must use all Artificial Aids with self-control and judgement, using them lightly at all times. It is important to remember the horse’s short attention span, which is approximately 3 seconds, which means that any use of an Artificial Aid must be used within that 3 seconds.

Spurs. Western Spurs have blunt rounded wheels (rowels) and are worn on each boot, low on the heel. The rider uses leg pressure, then adds a light touch from the spur if the horse does not respond. Using spurs requires an experienced rider who must ensure that his legs do not "bounce" and continually tap the horse during movement. All spur action should be light and subtle at all times.

 

Crops. A crop is a short stiff whip at approximately 600mm long with a flat "popper" on one end and a handle on the other. The rider uses the crop one handed, whilst holding the reins in the other hand. Crops are used just behind the leg, as reinforcement to the leg pressure. The sound itself and not the pressure from being hit is what the horse should respond to.

Whips. A Training or Dressage whip is a device for an experienced rider only. This whip is approximately 1.2m long, thin, and flexible. The whip is held in one hand, along with one of the reins, and is used to lightly tap the side of the horse, behind the saddle, without taking the hands on the reins. As with a Crop the use of the whip is as reinforcement to the leg aids.

Martingales. A "Martingale" or "Tie Down" is a supplementary device which is used to control the position of the horse’s head. It is used in conjunction with a bridle.

A Running Martingale is a strap that attaches to the Girth with a clip, and splits into two separate straps with rings at the ends. The reins run through the rings between the bit and the rider’s hands. When used by an experienced rider the rings should not restrict the horse’s natural and relaxed head position. When the horse brings its head up too high, pulling on the reins results in a downward pressure on the bit to make the horse drop it’s head to gain pressure relief.

A Standing Martingale or Tie Down is similar to a running Martingale except that instead of the rings it attaches to the "bosal" or noseband, independent of the bit. When adjusted properly the tie down should not interfere with the horse’s natural head position, but supplies downward pressure only when the horse raises its head too high. Often Martingales are fitted with an additional strap (just below the point where the single strap splits into two straps) that runs around the horse’s neck, above the chest, to keep the martingale in place.

Horse Colours.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Horse Terminology.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blue Bronna Wilderness Camp - Wrangler Level

 

Appaloosa Breed Characteristics.

 

Fig 1                        Fig 2                      Fig 3                      Fig 4

 

 

There are 6 easily recognizable physical characteristics of the Appaloosa breed: -

Parti Coloured Skin Fig 1 – This is one of the most tell-tale physical characteristics of the breed. This mottled skin is always evident in the genital region of the horse and may be evident around the soft pink skin of the lips, muzzle, nostrils, & eyes

White Sclera around the eye Fig 2 – This has somewhat the resemblance of the human eye. The white is on the eyeball itself, surrounding the coloured iris.

Varnish Marks Fig 2 – These are the most common in Appaloosas with roan coloration and are actually a grouping of a predominance of dark hairs within an area. Common areas where varnish marks are found are on the nose and face, above the eyes, on the point of the hip, behind the elbow and in the gaskin & stifle region. At a distance this may be one of the tell-tale aids in determining if the horse is an Appaloosa or a roan-coloured horse. Close examination will verify your decision, depending upon the eye, skin, and hooves.

Striped Hoof Fig 3 – The tough flinty hoof of the Appaloosa frequently shows vertical stripes, or laminations. On some individuals this is quite prominent, and on all four hooves; on others it may not be so noticeable or appear only on one hoof. This is always more readily seen when the hooves are wet or cleaned.

Sparse Mane & Tail Fig 4 – Many Appaloosas show this tendency towards a sparse mane and tail, some of them showing little more than a "stump" for a tail. These are often referred to as "finger-tails" or "rat-tails". All individuals within the breed do not show this characteristic; but, as a breed, the Appaloosa tends towards the sparse tail & the wispy mane.

Coloured Coat See the next section.

 

 

Appaloosa Coat Patterns & Markings.

Spotted blanket over loins       White blanket without spots      Leopard, spotted all over

 

 

 

 

 

 

Marginal, weak on colour but     Snowflake, white flecks      Spotted blanket with solid

strong on physical                    over a solid colour              coloured forequarters

characteristics        

Paint Coat Patterns & Markings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                          OVERO                                                        TOBIANO

 

 

 

 

 

                         TOBERO                                                 SABINO

Face & Leg Markings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Full Stocking -Half Stocking -Sock            -Anklet      -Pastern Coronet   -Both Heels

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

      Bald            -Race          -Blaze   -Star/Strip/Snip      -Strip           -Star/Snip        -Star              -Snip

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Teeth.

 

 

 

 


7 Years Old, showing “Tushes” and “Seven Year Hook”

 

 9-10 year old - note “Galvyne’s Groove” appearing at gum margin

 

 

 

 

 

15 year old - note “Galvayne’s Groove” extends

halfway down the Labial surface of Incisor

 

 

 

 

20 year old - note “Galvayne’s Groove” now extends

 the entire length of the Labial surface of Incisor

 

 

 

All Horses have at least 36 teeth, however some have up to 42 teeth.

This number is based upon the following: -

12 off Incisors (located at the front of top and bottom jaw).

24 off Molars (located along each jaw at the side).

36 off Usual Total.

However some horses have additional numbers of teeth: -

4 off Bridle Teeth or Tushes - on Males only.

2 off Wolf Teeth - on some horses only.

When a foal is born they will have 2 incisors and 12 molars, with the reManeder of their teeth growing over the next 18 months.

Between approx 2 ½ and 4 ½ the foal will lose all of these baby (milk) teeth progressively in pairs, with their permanent teeth growing after each loss.

Once the horse has its permanent teeth they will grow out of the jaw line until at approx 25-30 years of age when the horse runs out of teeth, that is no more teeth grow and the horse will be unable to grind up their food adequately.

This estimate of years is based upon the horse’s condition and the type of food provided over its life.

Teeth should be checked and "floated" by a dentist on a regular basis with foals checked twice a year and horses yearly.

 

 

 

 

Hoof

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Foaling.

Terminology

Maiden Mare Never been bred

Foaling Mare Foaled in current year

Barren Mare Unable to Conceive

Mares in general

Mares will commence their cycle from a very early age with mares generally being ready for breeding at approx 5 years old, when they are fully-grown.

While mares are capable of becoming pregnant until late in there 20’s or beyond the frequency of the mare’s cycles slows down.

With any prospective breeding mare unless the mare is known to be a good breeder, it is a good idea to have the mare tested by a vet with an ultrasound and/or swab to confirm that she is ovulating suitably and that she is clean thereby offering the best chance to becoming pregnant.

The normal heat cycle of a mare is 21 days, with the mare being "on heat" for 5 of these days.

During the time she is "on heat" many mares will display uncommon behaviour. Mares who are normally quiet may become aggressive and bossy, while other mares that are normally dominant may display a submissive manner.

During a mare’s time on heat she will display certain behaviour to attract a mate. Any gelding or stallion will be attracted with her behaviour.

Breeding

With conventual mating of a mare and stallion it is a good idea to bandage the mares tail and clean her external vaginal area before mating.

A mare ready for breeding will normally back up towards the stallion in a submissive nature, however mares that are not ready for mating (late in their cycle) may kick out at the stallion.

The stallion will sniff around the mare while becoming aroused, before mounting her.

After breeding the stallion will quickly lose interest in the mare, and should be removed from her to avoid being kicked.

However with Artificial Insemination techniques mares may be brought onto season with a combination of drugs administered by a vet.

Semen is collected by a qualified person, often at a separate breeding facility, before being chilled and shipped to the mare in question.

Insertion is then performed by a vet or similar qualified person.

Both means of breeding offer similar chances of pregnancy, however AI offers the convenience of retaining the mare at home without transportation, however with increased costs.

Conformation of a pregnancy is required (usually 18 days after breeding) to allow for a second breeding session at the mares next season should the breeding not be successful.

Signs of Foaling

Development of mare’s udder. The udder is usually firm but softens just before foaling.

Development of wax on the ends of the teats. This is an unreliable sign as this wax like substance is very fragile and can be knocked off very easily. It can also occur up to 36 hours before foaling.

Water is delivered from the foetal sack. This is the only sure sign that the mare is about to foal.

Pre-Foaling Period

This can last up to 30 minutes. Any longer than this usually means the mare is in trouble.

Water is delivered from the foetal sack.

The mare may lie down and present her feet. It is quite normal for the mare to get up and down shifting her weight. (She is probably placing the foal in the correct position for birth).

The mare should not appear distressed or sweaty as this is a sign that she is having trouble.

The mare will finally lie down and seriously begin presentation of the foal.

Foaling Period

This can last up to 15 minutes. If this takes any longer and the foal is not progressed it usually means trouble and the foal is generally not delivered alive.

Mare pushes hard and forceful. The forceful nature of this process makes help in delivery difficult and the mare can even break her own pelvis by pushing a misplaced foal out. Difficult births usually occur in mares that are permanent bad breeders.

Foal Care

The umbilical cord is usually broken off during the process of the foal standing up. Apply antiseptic to the navel.

The foal should stand up within 30 minutes. The muscle tone of the foal is usually reflected in its ears and the foal will not stand until its ears are standing.

Things to Remember

In a normal birth the foal’s nose and one foot are first presented, closely followed by the second foot, i.e. Normal presentation is the nose and both front feet.

If all is going normally do not interfere by pulling on the foal as you may rupture its internal organs.

Retained Placenta

A placenta is considered retained if it is held 6 hours or longer.

Treatments: -

Let it rot out and treat the mare to prevent infection.

Physically remove the placenta, taking care not to tear the uterus surface.

A combination of hormones and antibiotics will cause the contraction of the uterus and removal of the placenta. This causes pain and discomfort. The mare should be re-examined on her 30 day heat and have a culture taken by a vet.

Foaling Mare

The mare will come into heat 9 days after the foal is born. This is called the "nine day foal heat". It is not advisable to rebreed the mare at this time as it interferes with the uterus cleaning itself and healing after pregnancy. A mare should only be bred on her "nine day foal heat" if:

she has never had a previous breeding problem.

she has passed her placenta within 2 hours of foaling.

she had no problems or needed no assistance during foaling.

her placenta weighed less than 13 kg’s.

her vaginal examination showed no bruising or discharge.

Intermediate Horse Sense.

In this section of Horse Sense we look at the behaviour of the horse, both reactions and habits to incidents within the herd and from other influences.

Herd Instinct Horses are naturally scared of anything that they are unfamiliar with, this also applies to any untrained horse born in captivity. All horses possess a strong group or herd instinct that, in the wild, would protect their survival. A horse will not leave the safety of the group unless forced, and will try to return to the group as soon as possible. Horses in a group will mimic the other horses in the group. If one runs they all run, if one shys they all shy, if one bucks the others will follow. The herd instinct stays with the horse for its entire life, however training can control this behaviour. This instinct can be used for our advantage when training a young horse by riding or working an older horse along side the younger horse. The young horse will mimic the actions of the older horse.

Homing Instinct Horses have a strong homing instinct and a good sense of where their home is. Horses taken away from their home paddocks i.e. a Trail Ride will be able to find there way home without any problems. However horses can become anxious to get home, especially the closer to home they get, and for this reason it is important to ensure that your horse is under control and is made to walk when returning home. This will prevent the horse from becoming uncontrolled and dangerous.

Pecking Order Within the herd environment there is a boss of the herd. All the other horses then have a place in the herd below the leader, based upon their seniority and age. The horses work this pecking order out by themselves often with threats of biting, kicking, or other aggressive behaviour. The order within the herd will usually have the youngest or newest horses in the herd at the bottom of the pecking order. Once the order is established there is little fighting and the group acts as one. The leader, often a dominant Mare (if no Stallion is in the herd) will lead the herd to feeding grounds and will eat and drink first. When horses are being handled or ridden they must understand that we are the leader and are above them on the pecking order. Allowing a horse to push you around or to get away with bullying behaviour will result in the horse not respecting the handler and will be difficult to control.

Possessiveness Horses often demonstrate a strong possessiveness to their environment. This applies to "their" stall, "their" food, and in particular with Mares, to "their" foal. Whenever horses are eating beware of this trait, as a horse will defend their food against other horses even if you are in the way. When ever handling Mares and foals be aware of this instinct as any Mare separated from her foal will become concerned and may struggle and fight to get released and return to the foal.

Visible Signs When working around horses there are numerous visible signs that horses provide to allow us to know what mood they are in. refuse to move until you dismount. The way to break this habit is to dismount at different locations.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Text Box: Ears forward but relaxed – Interested in what’s in front of him.


 

 

Text Box: Ears turned back but relaxed – Listening to the rider or what’s behind him.


 

Text Box: Ears droopy – Calm and resting, horse may be dozing.


 

Text Box: Ears flattened against neck – Violently angry, in a fighting mood. May fight, kick, or bite.


 

Text Box: Ears stiffly back – annoyed or worried about what’s behind him, might kick if annoyed.

Text Box: Ears stiffly forward – Alarmed or nervous about what’s ahead. Looking for danger.


 


 

Text Box: Ears pointed left and right – Relaxed, paying attention to the scenery on both sides.

Other signs include” –

Tucking the tail down tightly – Danger to the rear; horse may bolt, buck, or fight. Watch out if the ears are flattened as well.

Switching the tail – Annoyance or irritation at stinging flies or at the annoying actions of the rider

Droopy ears, resting one hind leg on toe – Calm and resting, the horse may be dozing. Use caution when approaching.

Wrinkling up the face, swinging the head – A threatening gesture of an angry or bossy horse. Watch for biting or kicking

 

Defenses Horses in the wild are prey animals, that is they are the prey of other more aggressive animals. For this reason they have a natural instinct to run away from danger. As well as this defense horses have an ability to kick and bite for their own protection. The horse’s first reaction to any danger or unknown situation is to escape and run, and for this reason it is important to ensure that any untrained horse is adequately controlled. Training horses does not remove this natural instinct, but allows us to control it, but ensuring the horse obeys the rider. Horses are most frightened of losing their ability to escape and any horse that is trapped, entangled, or made helpless will often become panicky and will struggle to get away.

Memory The horse’s memory is extensive. This memory enables them to remember where the food and water is located who the herd is, and what to escape from. Memory of certain bad experiences may make a horse nervous when they are placed in some situations. It is the horses good memory that enables us to train them to respond to our given cues and aids.

Courage/ Laziness Most horses demonstrate laziness when asked to work, and often try to find an easy way to do things. They will try a find a short cut or to cheat. This can be very obvious if the work is boring, unpleasant, or if the horse has to put up with bad riders. However some horses can display a certain kind of courage or "heart" and will often do a little bit extra, or go further than asked, often when they are tired or hurting. This kind of courage should be respected and the horse should never be pushed or abused.

 

 

Blue Bronna Wilderness Camp - Horseman Level

Skeleton.

Labels not yet put in sorry

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1 Cervical Vertebrae                 15 Trapezium

2 Thoracic Vertebrae                16 Ulna

3 Lumbar Vertebrae                  17 Patella

4 Sacral Vertebrae                   18 Tarsal Bones

5 Coccygeal Vertebrae             19 Metatorsal Bones

6 Scapula                                20 Splint Bones

7 Humerus                               21 Curb Bone

8 Radius                                 22 Tibia & Fibula

9 Carpal Bones                       23 Femur

10 Metacarpal Bones              24 Ischium

11 First Phalynx                     25 Ilium

12 Second Phalynx                26 Pubis

13 Sesamoids                       27 Ribs

14 Coffin Bone

Unsoundness & Blemishes.

Many horses suffer from either Unsoundness or Blemishes, or a combination of both. Some Unsoundnesses are the result of a blemish and can be called either, or both. The definition is how they effect the action and working ability of the horse.

 

Numbers not in picture yet sorry

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HEAD
1 Cataract (U) – cloudy or opaque
appearance of the eye.
2 Defective Eye (U) – impaired vision or blindness.
3 Poll Evil (U) – inflamed swelling of poll between ears.
4 Roman Nose - faulty conformation.
5 Parrot Mouth (U) – lower jaw is shorter than upper jaw.
6 Undershot Jaw (U) – upper jaw is shorter than lower jaw

NECK
7 Ewe Neck – faulty conformation

WITHERS & SHOULDERS
8 Fistula of Withers (U or B) – inflamed swelling of withers.
9 Sweeny (U) – atrophy or decrease in size of a single muscle or group of muscles, usually found in shoulder or hip

FRONT LEGS
10 Shoe Boil or Capped Elbow (B)
– soft flabby swelling at he point of elbow.
11 Knee – sprung or buck knee – over at the knees – faulty conformation
12 Calf Kneed – back at the knees – faulty conformation
13 Splint (B) – capsule enlargement usually found inside upper part of front cannon
14 Wind Puff (U) – puffy swelling occurring either side of tendons above fetlock or knee.
15 Bowed Tendons (U) – enlarged, stretched flexor tendons behind the cannon bones.
16 Ringbone (U) – bony growth on either or both sides of pastern.
17 Sidebone (U) – bony growth above and toward the rear quarter of hoofhead.
18 Quittor (U) – fistula of the hoofhead.
19 Quarter or Sand Crack (B) – vertical split in the wall of the hoof.
Navicular Disease (U) – inflammation of small navicular

1 bone usually inside front foot
2 Founder (U) – turning up of foot and rough, deep rings in hoof wall caused by overfeeding, severe concussion or disease and abnormal management.
3 Contracted Feet (B) – abnormal contraction of heel.
4 Thrush (B) – Disease of the frog.

BODY
5 Heaves (U) – difficult breathing,
lung damage.
6 Roaring (U) – difficult breathing
due to obstruction usually in larynx.
7 Rupture (U) – protrusion of internal organs through the wall (hernia) of the body. Umbilical or Scrotal areas most common.
8 Sway Back – faulty conformation
9 Hipdown (U) – fracture of prominence of hip and falling away.

REAR LIMBS
10 Stifled (U) – displaced patella of stifle joint.
11 Stringhalt (U) – nervous disorder characterised by excessive jerking of the hind legs
12 Thoroughpin (U) – puffy swelling which appears on upper part of hock and in front of the large tendon.
13 Capped Hock (B or U) – enlargement on point of hock. Depends on stage of development.
14 Bog Spavin (U) – meaty, soft swelling occurring on inner front part of hock.
15 Bone Spavin or Jack Spavin (U) – bony growth usually found on inside lower point of hock.
16 Curb (U) – hard swelling on back surface of rear cannon about 100mm below the hock.
17 Cocked Angle (U) – usually in hind feet, horse stands bent forward, due to contracted tendons.
18 Blood Spavin (B) – swelling of vein
usually below seat of bog spavin

Conformation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

       Ideal Position             Camped Under      Camped Out                Knee Sprung          Calf Kneed

Vertical line from the shoulder should fall through the elbow and centre of foot.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

             Ideal Position                    Stands Under                     Camped Out        Leg too Straight

Vertical line from the point of Buttock should touch the rear edge of

cannon from back of fetlock and meet the ground behind the heel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

     Ideal Position        Toes Out                Bow Legged    Narrow Chested       Base Narrow   Knock Kneed               Pigeon Toed

                                                                                             Toes Out             Stands Close

Vertical line from point of the shoulder should fall in centre of knee, cannon, pastern & foot

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

             Ideal position                   Stands Wide                    Stands Close                      Bow Legged                   Cow Hocked

 

 

Vertical line from the point of the buttock should fall in centre of hock, cannon, pastern & foot

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                       

Conformation can effect the way your horse walks.

The actual conformation will produce a distinctive way he walks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kinda looks like "Sheman"

 

 

 

Conformation is the way the horse is put together. Remember that not all horses are identical and that conformation deviations is based upon the degree of difference between a horse and what is considered to be a perfect horse with perfect conformation.

Learn to recognize what is normal in a horse, including movement actions and this will help to make any conformation problem easy to notice.

Remember that most horses can function quite well with some conformation issues.

Advanced Horse Sense.

This section on advanced horse sense deals with some of the finer aspects of your horse’s mind as well as some of the behavioural problems likely to be experienced.

Hearing

Horses have very acute hearing and can detect noises often long before humans hear them. This ability to hear minute noises with ears that can hear in all directions enable natural survival. With a high level of hearing it is not necessary to yell or shout at horses.

Scent and Taste

Like hearing, the horse’s sense of taste and smell are highly efficient. Horses use their sense of smell to detect familiar or friendly horses and humans, and can detect changes to the way their water or feed smells or tastes (particularly when medicines are added). It is thought that the horse’s homing instinct is based upon their ability to detect the scent of their home pasture from considerable distance.

Touch

The horse’s sense of touch is also very fine and they can detect a fly landing on their skin. The horse is sensitive to light pressures so when training and/or riding hand and leg pressure should be sensitive and light. There is no need to use excessive force to control the horse and if this repeated pressure is applied long term damage may result as the corresponding area of the horse becomes "dead" to the pressure. This means that the horse tolerates and ignores the pressure so that he appears not to be responding. Touching objects with the muzzle and lips allows the horse to examine objects.

Biting

Biting or nibbling by a foal is there way of experiencing what is in front of them. They usually do not do this out of any type of anger response, however when working around foals you need to be on guard to stop the foals "tasting" you. Horses use biting during their herd dominance activities. Biting as well as showing teeth can be used to assert their place in the herd position. However some horses will occasionally try and bite the rider and handler. This can be either because they have been teased during meal times or because they are uncomfortable or in pain. Biting is unacceptable behaviour towards a handler and needs to be corrected. If your horse tries to bite you a hard slap on the shoulder immediately will give him the message that this behaviour is unacceptable. Do not try and hit him on the mouth as this response can make a horse head shy.

Kicking

Similar to biting, kicking can be used to assert dominance in the herd. Kicking is a primary defence tool of the horse as it tells other horses to keep away. If a horse feels that it is trapped in an unsafe location it may try and kick out at a handler or rider. This behaviour is both dangerous and unacceptable and needs to be attended to as soon as it happens. DO NOT try and discipline the horse yourself otherwise you may get kicked but leave it to someone qualified.

Bucking

A horse that bucks when you mount onto the saddle may be in some pain or discomfort. This is usually caused by a problem either with his body (back) or the fit of the saddle on his back/belly. Sometimes objects over a horse’s rump may spook the horse and cause him to buck. If you are riding when your horse starts to buck sit as upright as possible, lift your horse’s head up, and drive him forward.

Shying

Shying away from strange objects is part of the horse’s natural defences. Objects that concern the horse and cause him to shy away can be anything he is not used to (even small animals or things on the ground like plastic bags).

 

Punishment for shying can result in a learned behaviour and he will fear the object more in subsequent encounters. Likewise praise can mean he relates the act of shying as what you want him to do and he may repeat it in the future.

The best method to overcome shying is to halt your horse and when he is calm walk him up to the object so he can sniff the object. He will learn that the object prevents no risk and will be less concerned. Objects that move like plastic bags will take longer for the horse to accept.

 

 

Baulking

A horse that stops and refuses to go forward or sometimes to move at all is sometimes shying at an object in front of him. This action needs to be dealt with as per the comments above. However horses sometimes baulk in other situations such as being ridden away from the herd or being worked by themselves. If this happens it is important to urge the horse forward without punishing him. Sometimes asking the horse to go around may be enough to allow him to overcome the problem.

Rearing

A horse rearing presents a severe danger to the rider as well as to other horses and handlers. This practice is not to be tolerated and the horse needs to be retrained by a qualified person. Horses that rear can fall over backward thus injuring a rider. If you are on a horse that rears lean forward and hang on. Rearing can often follow a horse shying and/or baulking, and can be caused by harsh bit action

Wind Sucking

 

Wind sucking or cribbing is an additive problem where horses bite on a rail or similar item, arch their necks, and gulp in air. The problem is usually found in horses stabled for long periods.

As the problem is addictive, correction with a collar is required.

Windsucking can affect the horse’s teeth as well as the volume of air can affect his digestive system. Yelling at a windsucking horse is a waste of time.